Fishing Season Begins: The Best Fish to Enjoy in Autumn

When September arrives, a certain excitement takes over Istanbul’s seas. From bonito to bluefish, anchovy to horse mackerel, tables overflow with the bounty of the sea. Fishing boats return to shore, stalls brim with fresh catches, and the scent of grilled fish drifts from restaurants along the Bosphorus. For Istanbul, this is more than a change of season; it is a ritual of welcoming autumn.

Bonito (Palamut)

Let’s start with the bonito, the first great herald of the autumn fishing season. If you hear the phrase, “This year, the bonito are plentiful”, you can be sure the entire season will be abundant. In years known as “bonito years,” prices drop, and the city feasts on fish like never before.

In September, schools of bonito migrate from the Black Sea to the Marmara, an event eagerly awaited in Istanbul for centuries. Their arrival means full nets for fishermen and festive tables for all.

During the Ottoman era, bonito was a culinary star. Palace archives record numerous recipes, most famously lakerda, prepared by salting and preserving large bonitos called torik. The fact that lakerda still graces fish tables today, as it has since the 16th century, speaks volumes about the historical significance of this fish.

With its meaty and fatty texture, bonito can be cooked in many ways. On the grill, it turns crispy on the outside and juicy inside. Baked in slices, it becomes an elegant main dish. Pan-fried, served with arugula, onion, and lemon; it is unforgettable.

Strolling along the Bosphorus in autumn, the aroma of grilled bonito wafts from fish restaurants, stirring not only your appetite but also the city’s collective memory. Bonito, for Istanbul, is more than just a fish.

Bluefish (Lüfer)

Have you heard bluefish called “the prince of the city”? Istanbulites have embraced this fish so wholeheartedly that it has become inseparable from the city’s culture, celebrated for both its flavor and its stories. In the past, catching bluefish was considered a mark of prestige among fishermen, inspiring essays and poems.

Even today, no classic Istanbul fish feast is complete without bluefish at the center. Its firm, fatty flesh is best enjoyed grilled, paired with plenty of arugula, onions, and warm bread. Fried or stewed bluefish are also popular staples in fish restaurants.

Like bonito, bluefish are named according to size: the smallest are çinekop, medium-sized are sarıkanat, and the largest are kofana. Each stage offers a different flavor. Bluefish needs little embellishment—its rich taste shines even when grilled simply with salt. For a lighter option, it can be steamed with aromatic vegetables.

Horse Mackerel (İstavrit)

From “the prince” to “the people’s fish”: horse mackerel has earned its nickname because it is among Istanbul’s most accessible and beloved fish.

Abundant in the Marmara and Black Sea, horse mackerel has long been a staple of Istanbul’s cuisine thanks to its humble yet flavorful character. Despite its small size, its taste is irresistible. A vital livelihood for fishermen, it fills market stalls by the crate, a sure sign of a fruitful season.

It’s not just for professionals; recreational fishers in Istanbul often catch horse mackerel too, bringing their haul home to fry in the pan. Thin and delicate, it crisps quickly, turning golden and crunchy. Served with corn bread, arugula, and pickles, it makes for a classic meal. Larger ones are also excellent baked.

Whiting (Mezgit)

Though more modest in appearance compared to large, showy fish like bonito and bluefish, whiting has many devoted fans. Widely caught in both the Black Sea and Marmara, whiting is a favorite on Istanbul’s tables thanks to its white, tender flesh and light taste. In Ottoman times, it was prized as an affordable, healthy source of protein accessible to the public.

With few bones and a mild flavor, whiting is especially popular among children, making it the go-to choice for many families. Smaller whiting are usually dredged in flour and fried until crispy. For a healthier alternative, they can be baked with lemon and olive oil, or filleted and added to soups and main dishes.

It is a familiar sight at coastal fry shops. Though less prominent than bonito or bluefish, its simplicity makes it a balanced and beloved option among autumn fish.

Anchovy (Hamsi)

And finally, we come to the all-time favorite: anchovy. When you think of anchovy, you think of the Black Sea and vice versa. But for families who migrated from the Black Sea to Istanbul, anchovies hold such a strong place in cultural memory that they have become part of Istanbul’s identity too.

Anchovy was a staple of Ottoman kitchens and remains one of the most versatile fish in Turkish cuisine. Dredged in cornmeal and fried is the classic preparation, but its culinary journey goes much further: stewed in winter, or transformed into pilaf, meatballs, even pickles in the Black Sea tradition.

Visit Istanbul’s coastal towns and the scent of frying anchovies in hot oil signals the start of the fishing season.

Celebrated in poems and songs, anchovy is more than a fish; it is a way of life. Along the Black Sea coast, people say “a table without anchovy is no table at all,” and it’s no exaggeration. In Istanbul, too, crates of anchovy on display at fish markets mark one of autumn’s most anticipated moments for seafood lovers.

Autumn’s Story: From Sea to Table

The journey from sea to table each September is one of Istanbul’s finest traditions. Whether it’s fried horse mackerel in a seaside town, grilled bluefish along the Bosphorus, or a cozy home-cooked bonito dinner, fishing season gives autumn its special flavor. It is the perfect excuse to gather family and friends around the table, celebrating both the sea’s bounty and the joy of sharing.